This time, I ventured into the heart of Iceland, a place that had captivated me many years ago. Why? – Due to the vast lava fields, black sand, narrow gravel roads, the low number of visitors, the contrasts with the vegetation, and the colourful peaks of the surrounding craters and other volcanic formations. Because of the higher altitude, this part of Iceland is known as the “Highlands of Iceland.”
Landmannalaugar was the final destination, and its name is one you can only pronounce once you’ve actually visited. I hope my description of the day will be inspiring enough for you to remember the name too 😉
After heavy rain at the start, the weather improved by noon – our guide commented that it was the most beautiful day he’d experienced here all summer.
On the drive, we saw a lot of interesting things – among other things, we passed the Hellisheidi Geothermal Power Plant, which is the largest of its kind in the world and supplies about three-quarters of Reykjavik’s population. It also draws drinking water.
Along the road, there were many greenhouses, where cucumbers and tomatoes are mainly grown.
We drove through a small town where the now 84-year-old former top chess player, Friðrik Ólafsson (formerly ranked 13th in the world), resides.
The first destination was a 13-meter high waterfall, which is also the confluence of two rivers: Fossá and Þjórsá. The water from these rivers powers the second-largest dam in Iceland, which is located nearby.
“Hjálpar” = help; this area was named by travellers who crossed with horses – due to the dense vegetation, their animals could replenish their energy here before continuing their journey.
“Foss” = waterfall
Next, we visited small houses covered with grass – a reconstruction of a former farm that stood here a thousand years ago (it was destroyed in a volcanic eruption). Such dwellings were often built using a combination of black sand and water; sometimes, they also used other materials like whale bones or wood washed up on the shore.
*Iceland has almost no forests
As it was raining heavily, I only took my phone with me, rushed to the top of the hill where the houses stood, snapped a few photos, and ran back to the car. A second later, the rain stopped – this is what Icelandic weather is like…
The vast expanses of black sand slowly started to give way to lava fields. More and more blackness appeared on the horizon.
The first stop in Iceland’s highlands was an 11,000-year-old volcanic crater with a turquoise lake. If I hadn’t taken these two photos within the first few seconds of arrival, I would have ended up with no “clean” photos – since it was still drizzling, the strong wind immediately blew at least four drops of water onto the lens. And then another seven and then another ten…
And here’s a tip for fishing enthusiasts – the lake is said to be rich in trout. 😉
The next stop was at the top of a small pass. The vertical “lines” on the surface of the lake says it all – the wind was so strong that it almost pushed me into the valley. Such strong winds I’ve only experienced in Iceland. Even in Reykjavík, they’re common…
Moreover, the air was full of “dangerous” fine sand for both the eyes and the camera lens.
On the other side, the landscape looked like this:
Nearby, several 4×4 vehicles with rooftop tents were parked – probably one of the best places to sleep in Iceland.
And here we are – at the final destination, which is probably justifiably called “The Pearl of the Highlands.” Here, there’s a campsite, an information centre (mainly for hikers), and a tent for refreshments.
This area is a massive (caldera) volcano that “collapsed” during an eruption, exposing the colourful interior to the outside.
There’s also a hot spring here; surrounded by algae, you can enjoy the fresh, cool air while being warmed by the hot stream. This was the last activity on our schedule at this location, where we had 3 hours of free time.
I actually walked this trail with my family eight years ago. Walking the same paths was something truly special. I remembered EVERYTHING!
Do I even need to say anything about this beautiful landscape?! It even stopped raining…
Yes, the only thing missing was a rainbow. As soon as it appeared, I was so surprised that I obviously opened my mouth, and the gentleman nearby started laughing quietly. But unlike him, I saw the rainbow – it disappeared after 10 seconds.
As I mentioned earlier – Landmannalaugar is a very popular spot for hikers; it’s also loved by cyclists. And photographers…
Smoke in Iceland means one of two things: hot water / smelly sulphur fumes. Here, it was the latter. To be honest, I was finally eager to smell it too.
This is obsidian or volcanic glass – volcanic rock, which you can only find in this area and a few other places.
The main season is ending – guided tours will be available until the end of September. After that, the snow will arrive, marking the start of the season for more experienced hikers and all those seeking adventure.
Without a doubt, the most famous volcano in this area, adorned with all the shades of colour Iceland has to offer.
A beautiful gorge with green rocks and an orange-coloured riverbed.
At this point, I was already in a bit of a rush – since I didn’t know exactly how far the trail would end, I would observe the fatigue levels of the oncoming visitors and based on that, I would guess how much trail they had left. Since they looked fresh, I was reassured.
After a leisurely walk, I realised I only had half an hour left before departure. I had planned to bathe in the stream. Yeah, that didn’t work out… Oops.
Every year at this time, an event called Réttir takes place, with a 300-year tradition. Icelanders gather in large numbers to bring all 800,000 sheep, which have been grazing freely across the island during the summer, to the farms where they are sorted into special enclosures, similar to large wagons, called “rét.” After the work is done, they celebrate the end of the grazing season with group singing and dancing.
On the way back, we passed the least popular volcano in Iceland – Mt. Hekla, which is still active and has caused numerous disasters in the past. It has erupted 20 times in the last 1,000 years, most recently in 2000. It was once called the “Gateway to Hell.”
Can you name the final destination of this trip?
If yes, it’s high time you visited Iceland 😉
<3, Alenka